The Garden Column: Care of Christmas Cactus
Monday, March 01, 2010
By Juergen Jaenicke, MG
(Courtesy Cornell Cooperative Extension)
It’s still winter, and the only plants we can care for, admire and decorate the house with, are houseplants. Last month I featured poinsettias, this month I like to talk about the other holiday plant: The Christmas Cactus. The Christmas Cactus, Schlumbergera Bridgesii, is another popular Christmas plant, which sports intricate flowers in red, salmon, white and pink. They are one of the few holiday plants suited to growing all year long (no dormant period required). If the plant receives proper care, it can last along time.
Watering: Although this plant is a cactus, it requires more water than other cacti. Keep the soil of this plant evenly moist all the time. Do not over water the plant however, waterlogged roots can cause the flower buds to drop. Under watering or excessive dryness can bring on the same thing. In late summer or early fall, when the buds are forming, water only enough to keep the stems from wrinkling or shriveling. After the buds are formed, you can resume normal watering.
Lighting: These plants like a bright location and some sun. However, strong summer sun may cause the plant to turn yellow.
Note: Christmas cacti are sensitive to light. If you move the plant, be careful not to change its position relative to the source of light. This can weaken the small, newly-formed buds and they may fall off.
Fertilizing: Fertilize the plant every two weeks with a liquid houseplant fertilizer that is high in potassium. When the flower buds begin to form stop fertilizing.
Reblooming: The flowering of a Christmas Cactus is related to the length of the day and the night temperature. If the plant is kept outside during the summer, the cool temperatures of early fall nights (50 to 55 F) are usually enough for the plant to set buds. This will probably take place before you bring the plants back indoors (before the night temps go below 50F or before the first frost). The buds will form regardless of the amount of darkness they receive. If the plant is grown indoors all year round, it will need artificial short days or about 13 hours of darkness to start bud development. You can do this by placing the plant in a closet or unused room from 6 PM to 7 AM or draping it with a dark cloth for this period. If the plant is small enough, a brown paper bag may work too. After the bud forms, it can be treated normally, and you can practically watch the buds develop.
Repotting: Can be done when the plant is finished flowering
Propagation: The Christmas Cacti can be propagated from a cutting taken from the tip of the stem. “Y”-shaped cuttings are best, though others will also root. Each cutting should consist of two or three jointed segments. The cuttings should be inserted into a small pot of potting soil. Keep moist!
(Courtesy Cornell Cooperative Extension)
It’s still winter, and the only plants we can care for, admire and decorate the house with, are houseplants. Last month I featured poinsettias, this month I like to talk about the other holiday plant: The Christmas Cactus. The Christmas Cactus, Schlumbergera Bridgesii, is another popular Christmas plant, which sports intricate flowers in red, salmon, white and pink. They are one of the few holiday plants suited to growing all year long (no dormant period required). If the plant receives proper care, it can last along time.
Watering: Although this plant is a cactus, it requires more water than other cacti. Keep the soil of this plant evenly moist all the time. Do not over water the plant however, waterlogged roots can cause the flower buds to drop. Under watering or excessive dryness can bring on the same thing. In late summer or early fall, when the buds are forming, water only enough to keep the stems from wrinkling or shriveling. After the buds are formed, you can resume normal watering.
Lighting: These plants like a bright location and some sun. However, strong summer sun may cause the plant to turn yellow.
Note: Christmas cacti are sensitive to light. If you move the plant, be careful not to change its position relative to the source of light. This can weaken the small, newly-formed buds and they may fall off.
Fertilizing: Fertilize the plant every two weeks with a liquid houseplant fertilizer that is high in potassium. When the flower buds begin to form stop fertilizing.
Reblooming: The flowering of a Christmas Cactus is related to the length of the day and the night temperature. If the plant is kept outside during the summer, the cool temperatures of early fall nights (50 to 55 F) are usually enough for the plant to set buds. This will probably take place before you bring the plants back indoors (before the night temps go below 50F or before the first frost). The buds will form regardless of the amount of darkness they receive. If the plant is grown indoors all year round, it will need artificial short days or about 13 hours of darkness to start bud development. You can do this by placing the plant in a closet or unused room from 6 PM to 7 AM or draping it with a dark cloth for this period. If the plant is small enough, a brown paper bag may work too. After the bud forms, it can be treated normally, and you can practically watch the buds develop.
Repotting: Can be done when the plant is finished flowering
Propagation: The Christmas Cacti can be propagated from a cutting taken from the tip of the stem. “Y”-shaped cuttings are best, though others will also root. Each cutting should consist of two or three jointed segments. The cuttings should be inserted into a small pot of potting soil. Keep moist!