The Garden Column: Care of Poinsettia Plants
Sunday, February 07, 2010
By Juergen Jaenicke, MG
(Courtesy Cornell Cooperative Extension)
I have not written a column for a while and I apologize. Things have been hectic at my house and I recently suffered a stroke from which I am recovering nicely. “Getting old is not for sissies” and I am trying to be an “iron Man”.
Anyway, there isn’t much going on in our garden but people are always asking me how they can take care off their holiday plants. It is not a simple answer. You don’t need a green thumb, just a little bit of luck!
The poinsettia, a popular plant at Christmas time, provides effective color in the home during the holiday season. The newer poinsettia cultivars are long-lasting in contrast to previous years.
When purchased, poinsettias should be in prime condition, they should be well shaped, exhibiting dark green foliage with bracts free from defects.
Watering: The soil should be kept moist at all times, but not excessively wet. Apply water when the soil surface feels dry and apply enough ‘til it runs out of the drainage hole. For best results, never allow the foliage to wilt between watering.
Avoid placing the plants in areas where air movement from windows, doors, fans or radiators exists. Placing them here will cause rapid water loss from the foliage and bracts making it difficult for the roots to absorb enough water.
Reblooming: Poinsettias are among the most difficult to rebloom in the house. After plants begin to drop their leaves, withhold water to encourage dormancy, and store in a cool location (50-60 deg. F). Following the last frost of the spring, move the plants outdoors to full sunlight. Prune 2 or 3 inches from the end of each stem. The plants will develop a large amount of new growth during summer. It is probably best to start cuttings from the original plant, which would then develop into nice size plants ready for next Christmas.
In July or August remove 3 to 4 inch cuttings from the new growth on the plant. Insert each cutting in a small pot containing a sterilized mixture of half sand and half peat moss. Keep the cuttings shaded and watered during the rooting process (ABOUT 3 WEEKS). Then set the plants in larger pots in a sterilized mixture of equal parts of sand, peat moss and perlite. Locate the plants in full sunlight and provide a temperature range from 60-70 Deg. F at night. Keep the soil moist, and apply fertilizer solution (one tablespoon of 20-20-20 per gallon of water) per week.
Should you decide to allow your original plant to grow larger and to get it to rebloom instead of taking cuttings and starting new plants, follow all the above procedures, except the paragraph on taking cuttings in July or August.
Flowering: Poinsettias form flower buds when the days are shorter than 12 hours. Beginning the first of October, protect the plants from light by placing them in a dark closet between 5 PM and 8 AM daily. Exposure to artificial light (even the slightest amount) will inhibit flowering. After 40 days of this treatment, the plant can be kept in normally lighted rooms. With water, fertilizer, and 60-70 deg. F night temperatures, the plants will flower during December.
PS. I didn’t say it was easy!
(Courtesy Cornell Cooperative Extension)
I have not written a column for a while and I apologize. Things have been hectic at my house and I recently suffered a stroke from which I am recovering nicely. “Getting old is not for sissies” and I am trying to be an “iron Man”.
Anyway, there isn’t much going on in our garden but people are always asking me how they can take care off their holiday plants. It is not a simple answer. You don’t need a green thumb, just a little bit of luck!
The poinsettia, a popular plant at Christmas time, provides effective color in the home during the holiday season. The newer poinsettia cultivars are long-lasting in contrast to previous years.
When purchased, poinsettias should be in prime condition, they should be well shaped, exhibiting dark green foliage with bracts free from defects.
Watering: The soil should be kept moist at all times, but not excessively wet. Apply water when the soil surface feels dry and apply enough ‘til it runs out of the drainage hole. For best results, never allow the foliage to wilt between watering.
Avoid placing the plants in areas where air movement from windows, doors, fans or radiators exists. Placing them here will cause rapid water loss from the foliage and bracts making it difficult for the roots to absorb enough water.
Reblooming: Poinsettias are among the most difficult to rebloom in the house. After plants begin to drop their leaves, withhold water to encourage dormancy, and store in a cool location (50-60 deg. F). Following the last frost of the spring, move the plants outdoors to full sunlight. Prune 2 or 3 inches from the end of each stem. The plants will develop a large amount of new growth during summer. It is probably best to start cuttings from the original plant, which would then develop into nice size plants ready for next Christmas.
In July or August remove 3 to 4 inch cuttings from the new growth on the plant. Insert each cutting in a small pot containing a sterilized mixture of half sand and half peat moss. Keep the cuttings shaded and watered during the rooting process (ABOUT 3 WEEKS). Then set the plants in larger pots in a sterilized mixture of equal parts of sand, peat moss and perlite. Locate the plants in full sunlight and provide a temperature range from 60-70 Deg. F at night. Keep the soil moist, and apply fertilizer solution (one tablespoon of 20-20-20 per gallon of water) per week.
Should you decide to allow your original plant to grow larger and to get it to rebloom instead of taking cuttings and starting new plants, follow all the above procedures, except the paragraph on taking cuttings in July or August.
Flowering: Poinsettias form flower buds when the days are shorter than 12 hours. Beginning the first of October, protect the plants from light by placing them in a dark closet between 5 PM and 8 AM daily. Exposure to artificial light (even the slightest amount) will inhibit flowering. After 40 days of this treatment, the plant can be kept in normally lighted rooms. With water, fertilizer, and 60-70 deg. F night temperatures, the plants will flower during December.
PS. I didn’t say it was easy!